PUBLICATION
Evaluation of the safety and efficacy of cosmetics ingredient Spherulites Paeony Superior Retinol
- Authors
- Han, J., Gong, R., Wang, B., Gong, T., Chen, X.
- ID
- ZDB-PUB-240426-17
- Date
- 2024
- Source
- Journal of cosmetic dermatology 23(9): 3021-3029 (Journal)
- Registered Authors
- Chen, Xueping
- Keywords
- HPR, Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol, skin barrier, toxicity, zebrafish embryo
- MeSH Terms
-
- Skin/drug effects
- Skin/metabolism
- Embryo, Nonmammalian/drug effects
- Zebrafish*
- Cosmetics*/administration & dosage
- Cosmetics*/adverse effects
- Vitamin A/administration & dosage
- Vitamin A/pharmacology
- Animals
- PubMed
- 38665039 Full text @ J. Cosmet. Dermatol.
Citation
Han, J., Gong, R., Wang, B., Gong, T., Chen, X. (2024) Evaluation of the safety and efficacy of cosmetics ingredient Spherulites Paeony Superior Retinol. Journal of cosmetic dermatology. 23(9):3021-3029.
Abstract
Background Microencapsulation of hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) can improve its application in cosmetics.
Objective To investigate the safety and efficacy of Spherulites Paeony Superior Retinol, a HPR microcapsule containing 5%-10% peony seed oil, 0.01%-1% epigallocatechin gallatyl glucoside (ECGG), and 0.1%-1% HPR.
Methods The safety of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol was evaluated with zebrafish embryo self-rotation irritation test and developmental toxicity test. SymRenew™ HPR was used as a reference. The skin care efficacies of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol were evaluated using zebrafish embryos covering antioxidation, anti-inflammation, blood circulation, whitening, wound healing, skin barrier protection, Type I collagen, elastin, and 5α-reductase genes expression activities.
Results The irritation test revealed that 250 μg/mL Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol did not, while 20 μg/mL SymRenew™ HPR significantly (p < 0.05) increased zebrafish embryo self-rotation frequency. The developmental toxicity test found the teratogenicity index (half lethal concentration/half toxicity concentration) of Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol and SymRenew™ HPR were 1.9 and 3.1, respectively. The efficacy analysis results showed that 5 μg/mL Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol significantly (p < 0.05) exerted 7.1% anti-ROS, 20% anti-inflammation, 14% enhanced blood circulation, 10% suppressed melanin synthesis, 9% enhanced tail fin regeneration, 72% elicited skin barrier protection activity, enhanced the expression of Type I collagen genes col1a1, col1a2, and col1a2 by 34%, 51%, and 42%, respectively, and elastin gene elna by 46%, and suppressed the expression of 5α-reductase genes srd5a1, srd5a2a, and srd5a2b by 52%, 15%, and 30%, respectively.
Conclusion This study demonstrated that Spherulites Paenoy Superior Retinol is a safe cosmetic ingredient with multi-skin care efficacies.
Genes / Markers
Expression
Phenotype
Mutations / Transgenics
Human Disease / Model
Sequence Targeting Reagents
Fish
Orthology
Engineered Foreign Genes
Mapping